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Vietnam's urban marvel PDF Print E-mail

PLUCKING petals, cooking from a basket and jiggling puppets: Vietnamese ingenuity makes simple things beautiful, as Ewen Bell witnesses in Hanoi. On a street corner in Hanoi there's a lady plucking petals off lotus flowers. She sits there for hours and carefully pulls them apart, gathering the bright orange stamens from deep inside. The doorway to her little shop is piled high with lotus remains, and in a small glass jar she collects the bits worth keeping.

Old traditions are alive and well in Vietnam, and residents of Hanoi have done well to keep their connections with the past. I had to enlist the help of a guide to work out which tradition was being played out with the lotus flowers. It seems the stamens are heavily scented when picked fresh from the pond, and with a little skill and a lot of patience this can be infused into the leaves of green tea.

Medicinal uses include cleansing of the kidneys and enhancing the male libido, all with a delicately sweet taste. Most lotus flowers in Hanoi find their way into a temple instead of a teapot. Buddhists recognise the lotus as a symbol of enlightenment, beginning life deep in the mud of stagnant waters but eventually rising above to grace the sky as a pure blossom.

You never need to go looking for flowers in this city, they come looking for you. Women walk the footpaths with baskets of bouquets, while young girls cycle around town selling long-stem roses for a dollar a dozen.

Hanoi has almost as many temples as flower girls. Nestled among the art galleries and silk traders of the old quarter, modest arches lead a path to concealed courtyards, pagodas and statues. You can often smell the burning incense from temples as you walk by. Away from the chaos of the street these secret treasures provide a moment of peacefulness.

On a very different scale is the Temple of Literature, an oasis of learning just outside the old quarter. Centuries of knowledge and religious relics are preserved inside a series of walled gardens. The prized possessions are stone carvings that communicate the teachings of Confucian philosophy. Each plinth is poised on the back of a tortoise, a symbol of longevity.

In contrast to the durability of the medium, these profound scripts contain within them the idea that "all things are impermanent." I asked one of the monks if he could explain the paradox, and he observed that in the scheme of things 500 years is not really very long. It's hard to argue with a monk.

After absorbing your fill of wisdom at the Temple of Literature you can cross the road to KOTO Restaurant and absorb your fill of spring rolls. The name stands for Know One Teach One, a philosophy which has helped street kids in Hanoi learn valuable restaurant skills earn a new start in life. The menus are in English, the food is genuine Vietnamese and the money goes to a good cause.

Changing people's lives in this manner reminds me of the lotus scented tea, it requires patience and skill but the results are worth it.

Getting kids off the street is great, but getting eats on the street should not be missed either.

Hanoi's old quarter is full of unexpected opportunities for hungry pedestrians. You could find anything from rice-noodles in soup to catfish rolls in lime, ready to go when you are. It's amazing what a Vietnamese cook can do with hot coals, a tin pot and a basket of fresh ingredients.

Little laneways like the one between Dong Xuan Market and P Hang Chieu go one step further, with smoke and steam rising from make-shift kitchens all morning and all night. The most elaborate stalls are serving seafood specials with spicy sauces. Sensational. You really don't need a command of the language to order a fancy lunch - just point and pay, then watch what the locals do.

The source of all this fresh food are Hanoi's daily street markets. All day long vendors cycle their goods around town, but in the cool of the afternoon they gather where the locals know to find them. Avenues are made impassable to traffic as scooters and shoppers mingle together. Everything from vegetables to seafood arrives on the back of push-bikes and is pedalled to the punters.

Why bother setting up a store when you can bargain on your bicycle?

No street market is complete without a parade of petal pushers. Maybe it's the scent of roses or the calming effect of lotus flowers, but the flower girls are always the happiest people in the market. From under their pointy hats they smile to potential customers, knowing the blossoms will pretty much sell themselves.

It was a mystery to me where all these flowers came from, until I ventured out of Hanoi on a half-day cycling expedition. My guide took us along the Red River route, east of the old quarter, and we caught the ferry across to explore the nearby villages.

The bustle of Hanoi was worlds away as we rolled past rice fields and rose farms. The villages are starting to look a little more modern, with satellite dishes and power lines, but the means of production has not changed in centuries. Fields are ploughed by ox, seedlings are planted by hand and the harvest of rice is cut with a sickle.

Traditions are strong in Vietnam, and so are the farmers.

Cycling the countryside is a very soft adventure, but back in town just crossing the road can be an adventure of its own. Peak hour in the old quarter is a torrent of cars, scooters and bicycles. There's always someone who wants to go against the flow.

My favourite entertainment in Hanoi is standing at the big intersection north of Hoan Kien Lake, where you can watch traffic pour into each other from four different directions while pedestrians attempt to run the gauntlet.

The best reason to cross the street here is Hanoi's most unique cultural experience, the Thang Long Water Puppets Theatre. The stage is little more than a bamboo-clad wading pool, designed to obscure a system of pulleys that bring the puppets to life. Thang Long is the funniest puppet show you'll ever see, and the best seats in the house cost less than $2.

If you want to be a romantic you can always get the cheap seats for $1 and invest the change in a bunch of flowers.

Nightly performances use the theme of water to enhance stories of fishermen, rice-fields and fire-spitting dragons. What I love about Hanoi is the way cultural influences from abroad have failed to take away the city's sense of identity. Tourists fill the theatre every night to enjoy a pantomime of colour, and though the dialogue is completely foreign the spectacle is no less dramatic.

Plucking petals off a flower, cooking from a basket and jiggling puppets in a puddle are wonderful examples of Vietnamese ingenuity, and their ability to make simple things beautiful.

Last Updated ( Sunday, 06 April 2008 15:32 )
 
Golf in Vietnam PDF Print E-mail

Golf in VietnamGolfers from around the world are now realising that there is much more to Vietnam than just the miles of paddy fields shown in the many war films. The truth is that as a travelling golfer you will struggle to find a country and people offering such a warm welcome with excellent hospitality.

Golf in Vietnam is changing rapidly. After being virtually non existent for nearly 20 years (between 1975 - 1994) the country now boasts eight top-quality courses with facilities that are second to none.In reality the Vietnam of today is where Thailand was 15 years ago - ready to take off when it comes to offering a golf holiday with a difference.

Around Ho Chi Minh City - formerly Saigon - in the south of the country there are four excellent courses to choose from each with superb facilities and within easy reach of the city centre. Being based here gives you the luxury of superb golf, plenty of exciting sight seeing and local tours - plus of course shopping for untold bargains.

There are plenty of excellent four and five-star International hotels in the city plus a vibrant nightlife and varied cuisine to enjoy. Sample the delights of Pho (beef noodle soup) for breakfast which will set you up for the rest of the day whether you're golfing or taking in the local sights. A round of golf in Vietnam will normally include a caddie who's local knowledge is invaluable.

The Vietnam Golf and Country Club just outside the city was designed by Lee Trevino and offers two superb courses. With spa and massage facilities to be enjoyed after your round and an internationally acclaimed club restaurant, the golf isn't the only reason to visit here.

Other 18-hole championship courses near to the city centre are Bochang Dong Nai - recognised as one of the top 10 most beautiful and challenging courses in Indo-China - and Song Be - Vietnam's first championship standard course.

Just a two hour drive north east of Ho Chi Minh City through wondrous countryside is Phan Thiet on the east coast which is home to the luxurious Ocean Dunes Novotel Coralia.

The course here was designed by Nick Faldo and its signature 9th hole features prominently in the 'best 500 holes in the world' publication of well respected US golf magazine. A championship links with a par 72 and measuring 6,749 yards, the course winds its way through seaside dunes with coastal breezes shaping the character from day to day.

'Ocean Dunes is an outstanding natural site with the sand dunes, sea breezes, beach vegetation and sea views,' says Faldo. 'It has the feel and playability of the early seaside courses but with a tropical climate.' Facilities offered at the Ocean Dunes complex are excellent including private beach, tennis courts, swimming pools and beauty salons. The resort is ideal if you want to take a few days to chill out by the sea and enjoy some of the wonderful seafood that Vietnam is justly famous for providing. The 122 room hotel features stylish accommodation and tasteful suites with the latest in-room amenities. Each room is complete with its own balcony, offering magnificent views and stunning sunset panoramas across the delightful Phan Thiet coastline.

After relaxing at Ocean Dunes take time and head up to Dalat where you will find the stunning Dalat Palace Golf Club which is set in idyllic surroundings. Dalat - known as the City of Eternal Spring - has a superb temperate climate from a lofty position some 5,000 feet above sea level.

Staying at the five-star Sofitel Dalat Palace, which dates back to 1922, is nothing short of total luxury. Fully operational since early 1994, the Dalat Palace Golf Club is a masterpiece in design. Gently crafted into the rolling hills and overlooking the majestic Xuan Huong lake, the course weaves its way through stately pine tress to over-sized and delicately manicured greens. At 7,009 yards in length, the par 72 course is an enjoyable challenge for players of all levels and a thorough test for the expert. After an enjoyable visit to Dalat you can travel down to Nha Trang on the east coast with its superb beaches on the South China Sea and enjoy the facilities of five-star hotels.

A two-hour flight from Nha Trang will take you to Hanoi - the capital of Vietnam - which offers a total contrast to the cosmopolitan south. Around Hanoi there are several good courses to choose from and the recently opened Chi Linh Star course recently hosted an event on the Asian PGA Tour. After enjoying golf at Chi Linh Star, a short drive through the rich farmlands of the Red River Delta will bring you to Ha Long Bay where you can enjoy a cruise in a junk on the emerald green waters and view the spectacular limestone islands.

There are so many good reasons to sample the wonders that Vietnam has to offer from the breathtaking scenery and safe travel especially for women to the excellent value for money and un crowded golf courses.Vietnam really is the undiscovered jewel of world golf.

An example of a golf tour available together with accommodation details can forwarded to you: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it


 
 

Last Updated ( Sunday, 06 April 2008 15:42 )
 
Good morning, Vietnam PDF Print E-mail
Vietnam passes the test of the three Cs: it's cheap, cheerful and close – and, in these difficult times, it is safe.It will become an increasingly important destination for South African tourists, with the incredibly inexpensive packages that can be offered.

The country that was once at war has the potential to become one of the most popular Asian destinations.

It not only offers superb beaches and bargain shopping, the Vietnamese cuisine is a delight and the chance of picking up food bugs is minimal.

Visitors either enter in the south at Ho Chi Minh City (it was Saigon) and slowly make their way north to the capital Hanoi, or vice versa.

They can use Ho Chi Minh City as a base to explore the Mekong Delta, which is the rice bowl of the country and worth an overnight trip.

The meander north can include Nha Trang, a one-hour flight north from HCMC and a very relaxing beach stopover. It is similar to Bali, with hawkers on the beach to make life more bearable, selling fresh fruit, beer, T-shirts, postcards, jewellery ... you name it and they sell it.

Unlike Bali, however, the hawkers are usually happy to take "no" for an answer.

A 60-minute flight will take you from Nha Trang to the coastal town of Da Nang where China Beach became a famous R&R spot for troops during the Vietnam War (which the Vietnamese call the American War).

A 30-minute hair-raising drive from Da Nang was Hoi An, the town of tailors – almost 800 of them to be precise. They can knock up any sort of clothing in two days – suits, jackets, slacks, skirts, and shirts – and that includes at least one fitting.

Prices range from about R60 for shirts up to R720 for suits and it is very competitive. A complete wardrobe revamp could take a few days but the money saved could pay for the trip, so don't miss Hoi An.

For visitors more interested in the beach, a beautiful strip of white sand is just 5km from town where there are several high-class resorts.

A two-hour bus trip from Hoi An leads north to Hue, the ancient capital of Vietnam. A must-see for visitors is the old city and citadel which is being rebuilt after extensive damage during the war.

Fighting around Hue was intense and the town was retaken by the Vietcong during the Tet Offensive – a nationwide uprising in 1968, which claimed 1000 American and 2000 South Vietnamese army deaths while the North Vietnamese lost 32,000 troops. It was the beginning of the end of the war but it was not until 1975 that the Americans pulled out.

Another 90-minute flight will take you from Hue to Hanoi and back to the big-city bustle where the motorcycle is king.

Hanoi has three million people and two million motorcycles and very little in the way of road rules. It is organised chaos, as horns constantly toot and bikes dive into holes in the traffic. Little wonder that about 30 people die every day on Vietnam roads.

There's no break in the traffic, so crossing the street is an art that has to be learned quickly. It's a case of slowly moving across the street, no sudden movements, while making eye contact with oncoming drivers. The traffic flows around the pedestrians.

The trick is to do this while praying and avoiding the almost overwhelming temptation to panic and run.

A welcome break from Hanoi was a trip to Halong Bay – three hours by bus but a world away cruising the bay that is littered with unusual limestone rock formations.

Old junks have been rebuilt to cater for six couples in cabins with their own en suites. Very civilised, and all for around R300 a head for the two days with meals thrown in.

Another Hanoi sanity stopover is Sapa, an overnight train trip away in the highlands near the Chinese border. The hill tribes with their colourful costumes include the H'Mong.  

While Hanoi and, to a lesser extent Ho Chi Minh City, are interesting, they are also heavily polluted, so it is best to spend most of a Vietnam visit in the provinces.

It's a communist country, but the only restriction is to leave passports at the hotel desk while staying.

There are still relatively poor people in Vietnam; visitors, while haggling over what they are going to pay, should not worry about the odd Rand as prices are very cheap anyway.

Vietnam has just become the 150th country to join the World Trade Organisation, and that should be a great catalyst for the booming economy.

It's another sign that, after hundreds of years of war with the Chinese, the French, and then the Americans, the good times have finally come to these resilient and resourceful people.

Vietnam is no longer at war. It's a country going places with plenty to offer visitors.


FAST FACTS:

Getting there: Passengers must fly via either Hong Kong, Singapore or Bangkok currently to fly to Vietnam.  Packages including flights, accommodation and sightseeing are available from us.

Getting around: Travel around the country can be cheap by bus and train, although sometimes a little uncomfortable, but air travel is cheap, quick and comfortable.

Taxi trips in the big cities are safe and seldom cost more than R30; for the adventurous, motorcycle "taxis" cost R6 or R12 but you may not be covered by your travel insurance.

Food: Meals are cheap and the cuisine is delicious. A three-course meal in a local restaurant will be less than R60. Beer is about R6 a can; wine is expensive unless you are prepared to try the local Dalat red and white.

 

 

Last Updated ( Sunday, 06 April 2008 16:01 )
 


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