My wife, son and I had just spent the previous day visiting an "authentic" long-necked women's village, so I knew what he meant. The girls (and they were just girls, with only one over 18) are trucked into the village at 8am and leave at 4pm.

They're basically cash cows for tourist operators who charge tourists 500 baht (R120) each for the visit. After studying a brochure produced by the Frenchman, we decided to give authenticity another go. Late afternoon found us bouncing along on the back of a four-wheel-drive vehicle, winding through rice and tea plantations and up into the mountains originally inhabited by the Akha, Mong and Lahu tribes.

The scenery is spectacular and the road horrendous, often thinning to little more than a bicycle track with potholes. The higher you get, the cooler the temperatures and the more flamboyant the views, with shrouds of mist enveloping valleys and the fast-approaching sunset turning the entire landscape a deep and vibrant orange.

The sun had well and truly set by the time we reached the hill house, and an impressive fire lit the bamboo common room-restaurant that looms above the valleys below.

From the moment we dismounted from the 4WD, we felt at home. Other guests were chatting round a communal table, and all were enthusiastic about the accommodation, facilities and staff.

Akha Hill House is an integral part of a small tribal village. Many villagers work on a tea plantation in the nearest valley and the children attend school there, hiking the 4km to and fro daily.

Conceived and built by village Chief Apae Amor, the house is the only locally owned and managed hill tribe retreat in Chiang Rai Province.

Most rooms are very basic, but all are equipped with mosquito nets. My wife and I opted for a double room with toilet and shower; our son chose a single with communal facilities. Two deluxe rooms had glass windows and airconditioning.

Apae Amor's dream was to help his community. The majority of profits from the guest house are funnelled back into the village, with an education project being the main recipient.

"Education is the key to our children's future," he says. "Until recently, the only way our children could go to high school was to travel into Chiang Rai. But the cost was too much for families striving to exist on the sale of handicrafts. Now we have not only been able to improve the local facilities for primary students, but we are starting on a separate building for secondary students."

Apae offers free accommodation and food to qualified volunteers to teach English at the school. Sadly, most only stay a month or two as Apae can't offer an actual salary.

However, that may well change. Word-of-mouth means the hill house can afford to expand. Several new rooms are already under construction and more villagers will be employed.

This is in direct contrast to the long-necked girls, who seem destined to keep putting themselves on show for tourist dollars.

FAST FACTS
 Getting there: Direct flights from Bangkok to Chiang Rai on either Thai Airways or Air Asia. Air Asia has an $85 return fare.

 Getting around: Transportation from Chiang Rai to the Akha Hill House is free. A truck departs Chiang Rai daily at 4.30pm, and leaves Akha Hill House for Chiang Rai daily at 9am. Rooms cost $5 (basic single) to $60 (VIP bungalow).

 More info: www.akhahill.com or This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

The Sunday Mail (QLD)
By Michael Beattie